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Copyright 2004 Gale Group, Inc.
ASAP
Copyright 2004 Cosmetics International
Cosmetics International Cosmetic Products Report


October 1, 2004


SECTION: No. 237, Vol. 19; Pg. 3; ISSN: 1358-3387

IAC-ACC-NO: 125227134

LENGTH: 2827 words

HEADLINE: Origins gives Night-A-Mins a boost; Skin Care

BODY:
Origins is to boost its sleep-enhancing Night-A-Mins skin care range with increased levels of vitamins and minerals, new ingredients and the addition of an eye care product. In a departure for the brand, which is known for its wholesome image, it is supporting the revamped range with clinical trial data.

The Estee Lauder company has boosted the range in three ways. Firstly, it has enhanced its ability to improve the skin's barrier function with added B-complex vitamins, folic acid and seven minerals sourced from fossilised mineral water from Utah. Secondly, it aims to boost the desquamation process with the addition of sodium mannose phosphate. Thirdly, it hopes to stimulate the skin's metabolic processes with vitamins A, C, E and H. Night-A-Mins also includes oat extract to soothe the skin while these processes take place.

Marking the start of a new trend for the brand, Daria Myers, Origins vice president, has decided that it should shout about the clinical trials results for Night-A-Mins. Tests on women of varying ages showed that the new products improved the skin's barrier function by 62 per cent after eight week's use. Skin smoothness improved by 37 per cent after the same period, and there was a 39 per cent reduction in visible lines and wrinkles.

The new range will filter into stores worldwide from January 2005, replacing the old range as stocks run out. A 1.7-oz Cream or Lotion will retail at 25 [pounds sterling] while the Eye Cream, which is being introduced in response to customer demand, says Origins, will retail at 23.50 [pounds sterling].

World: Elizabeth Arden is bringing the benefits of Ceramide to the delicate lip area. Ceramide Plump Perfect Lip Moisture Cream SPF30 (rrp 63 [euro]) is an anti-ageing formula said to boost hydration and protect against environmental damage--as well as make lips fuller and less prone to wrinkles.

World: Scientists at La Prairie (Beiersdorf) claim to have unleashed the firming powers of caviar in a new product that promises dramatically improved skin tone, texture and overall appearance in just six weeks. The Skin Caviar Intensive Ampoule Treatment programme boosts the benefits of other Skin Caviar treatment products, as well as the entire La Prairie range, says the company.

The two-phase system retails at 500 [euro] and comprises 12 ampoules. Six contain lyophilisate--a blend of concentrated anti-oxidants such as vitamin C and super oxide dismutase in a freeze-dried powder form--and six contain a nano-emulsion of essential nutrients such as edelweiss plant extract, lactomide, La Prairie's patented Cellular Complex and a Firming Complex of Colhibin and Skin Caviar Extract. When the contents of these ampoules blend, says La Prairie, the result is a dynamic formula that helps to diminish the appearance of lines and wrinkles 'from the moment of application', smoothing and tightening the skin and encouraging the reduction of skin discolouration. As well as repairing existing damage, the product is said to decelerate the ageing process.

For maximum benefit, the ampoules should be used consistently for six weeks; the treatment may be repeated up to four times a year. It will be available from January 2005.

World: Estee Lauder is launching Stress Relief Face Mask (rrp 40 [euro]) worldwide this month. Made with anti-oxidant rosemary extract and vitamins C and E to revitalise the skin, plus soothing aloe vera, cucumber extract and caffeine, the sheet mask provides moisture via hyaluronic acid, while phospholipids, linoleic and linoleic acids work to repair the skin's moisture barrier.

US, Europe, Middle East, Far East: Guerlain Paris is extending its Issima Substantific skin care range with Eye and Lip Contour Treatment. The formula includes nutridol, nutrilastine, vitamin C and ruscus and is intended to make good the effects of hormonal changes that occur as women enter their fifties, such as dull, dried out skin that is prone to wrinkles.

Western Europe, Asia, Caribbean and the Middle East: When two companies at the forefront of cosmetics formulation and space technology join forces, the result could have a chilling effect on the rest of the industry.

That is certainly the opinion of Cosnessens' Luc Jugla and Fadi Khairallah of Thermagen, who claim their Ice-Source[R] lifting product 'opens the door to a new era in beauty care'.

Ice-Source[R] takes the invigorating and toning effects of the cold on the skin one step further by rapidly cooling the product inside its container from around 22[degrees]C to 2[degrees]C in under two minutes. The speed of this process, which is set in motion by pushing a button on the base of the container, means that lipids undergo a molecular retraction and can penetrate the skin more easily. Once absorbed, the lipids are said to fill up with water and revert to their original structure, lifting the skin in the process.

amongst the formula's active ingredients is CryoActif[R] arctic raspberry, which contains free-radical fighting, detoxifying and vein-strengthening antocyanes and tannins. The product's polymer chain of lipids has an emollient and moisturising effect, while aminoacid peptide is an anti-wrinkle agent. Sweet almond protein biopolymer then smoothes the skin by forming an elastic film.

Ice-Source will be available in Western Europe, Asia, the Caribbean and the Middle East from November with a rrp of 180 [euro] for a single-use, 22ml dose.

Europe: Skin whitening is the fastest-growing category of cosmetics in Asia, but Decleor claims its Aroma White Brightening range offers benefits for the European consumer, too.

Originally introduced in 1995, the reformulated 10-sku line was launched in Asia in February this year.

Formulated with Roman chamomile, vitamin C derivative and Decleor's exclusive White-Bright Complex of saxifrage, grape juice, white mulberry and skullcap root juice, which is said to limit the production of the melanin-producing enzyme tyrosinase, Aroma White Brightening appeals to 'the specific needs of different customers'. A key selling point for non-Asians is the reduction and prevention of pigmentation marks, with targeted treatment offered by Aroma White Brightening Spot Corrector.

European roll out is underway now; in the UK, the range is available initially from Harrods and Spa Luminata and will be nationwide from January 2005.

Europe: L'Oreal Paris is delaying the launch of its Happyderm skin care line due to unexpected demand for its micro-dermabrasion kit, Re-Finish. Happyderm was due to launch in January 2005 (Cosmetics Product Report September 2004), but the factory is now concentrating resources on Re-Finish. A revised launch date for Happyderm has yet to be confirmed.

Germany, Denmark, Eastern Europe and direct sale online: In time for the arrival of raw autumn weather, Dr Scheller Cosmetics has added Repair & Protection Hand Cream to its Basic Nature line for dry, sensitive skin.

An intensive care product, Repair & Protection's active ingredients are oat protein to reduce redness and itching, regenerate the skin and improve moisture; panthenol to moisturise and regenerate the skin, and allantoin, another regeneration aid. The product also contains jojoba and avocado oils and vitamin E and is designed to leave stressed, rough hands feeling soft and supple.

Retailing at 2.35 [euro] for a 75ml tube, the product is positioned as a value for money item that offers the same quality as much higher priced competitors. Two of Germany's top five hand creams for sensitive skin are sold only in pharmacies and there is no comparable product in household goods stores and department stores, where the Dr Scheller product will be sold. In addition, the launch comes at a time of increasing consumer spending on care products for sensitive skin, says Dr Scheller. Every sixth person in Germany says he or she has sensitive and stressed skin. Between October 2002 and 2003, the market grew by 25.4 per cent year-on-year, according to Nielsen.

Austria, France, Germany, Spain, Czech Republic and Hungary: Targetting women aged 40 to 55, Henkel (Schwarzkopf & Henkel) has added Wrinkles Expert 3D to its Diadermine facial care brand, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year.

Available in day and night cream variants, Wrinkles Expert 3D provides a hyaluron activator to stimulate skin cells into producing their own hyaluronic acid. The company claims that the creams can help the skin build up its supporting tissues, reducing wrinkles in depth and length by up to 45 per cent.

A noticeable reduction in wrinkles is visible within four weeks, says Dr Marianne Waldmann-Laue, skin research expert at Henkel's product development department. "The trip to the plastic surgeon can wait," she said.

Diadermine Wrinkles Expert 3D is out now, rrp 13.99 [euro]/50ml.

Developed by French company Laboratoires Bonetti in 1904, Diadermine debuted in the mass market in 1970 and ten years later was acquired by Germany's Henkel. The prize-winning brand has been a pioneer in skin care on the French market and in 2000 was introduced in Germany, where it is now promoted by the actress Veronica Ferres.

France and Germany: Henkel is launching an additional two skin care lines under the Diadermine brand in France and Germany.

As well as providing moisture, the two lines focus on the specific needs of individual skin types: Diadermine Nutri Effect with Dermo-Lipid Activator is for dry and sensitive skin and Diadermine Matt Effect with an Active Balance Complex is for normal and mixed skin. Nutri Effect has five different products, Matt Effect three.

Nutri Effect contains a Dermo-Lipid Activator that penetrates dry and sensitive skin to moisturise and nourish, regulate subcutaneous fat, ease tension and improve the skin's own protective functions.

The range comprises Cleansing Cream (5.99 [euro] for 125ml); Gentle Cleansing Milk and Gentle Facial Tonic (3.99 [euro] each for 200ml); Activating Day Cream (8.99 [euro] for 50ml), and Regenerating Night Cream (8.99 [euro] for 50ml).

Matt Effect, meanwhile, contains an Active-Balance Complex which gives a long-lasting matt effect to the 'T-zone' of nose and forehead while at the same time providing intensive moisture and regulating the production of the sebaceous glands. The line comprises Regulating Wash Gel (4.99 [euro] for 150ml); Regulating Facial Tonic (5.99 [euro] for 200ml), and Regulating Moisture Care (8.99 [euro] for 50ml).

Both variants are on sale now in Austria, Benelux, France, Germany, Portugal, Russia and Spain.

France, Germany, Poland and the UK: Garnier (L'Oreal) has learned from the ancient Greeks and Romans that honey can be used to treat irritated skin, supplying it with moisture and making it smooth. Now the company has developed what it calls a 'moisture power-packet with 100 per cent pure acacia honey' in new day and night creams for the Garnier Skin Naturals Jade Total Comfort range for dry and sensitive skin.

Acacia honey is a highly effective ingredient that helps the skin to store moisture in the epidermis, provides optimal moisture and care, and stimulates cell regeneration, the company says. Total Comfort day cream also contains vegetable hydro extracts of olive, palm and coriander oils. Just one application creates a relaxed feeling in the skin that lasts for 24 hours, says Garnier, yet the oil-in-water emulsion does not leave an oily film on the skin. The rrp is 4.60 [euro].

In addition to honey, the night cream version contains a complex made from corn extracts, sugar and vitamins. During sleep, the skin is reenergized and the next morning feels tender and cared for, says Garnier. The rrp is 5.20 [euro].

US: America is finally learning the secrets of a beauty queen with the launch of former Miss America Phyllis George's skin care line.

Ranging in price from $ 16.50 to $ 39.50, the line-up includes Gorgeous and Glowing Hydrating Cream, the Vanishing Lines Pen and nurturing cleansers. All products are formulated using botanicals and are enriched with minerals and vitamins, and some also contain a special Southern Radiance Botanical Complex (lavender, yarrow, bee balm and passion flower) which draws on George's own southern roots.

"I wanted to be sure that the botanicals in my line were the most pure and effective available," said George. "So we did research, and combined with some of my own beauty tips, created this exclusive blend of botanicals to develop products that I know women will love."

Explaining the decision to give her name to a range of beauty products, the author, actress and broadcaster added: "The Phyllis George skin care line was a natural extension for me. I recognise the importance of taking good care of my skin and what a healthy complexion says about me."

Phyllis George products are available throughout the US through the television and web retailer HSN.

US: After years of research and development, City Cosmetics is finally ready to extend its collagen-building treatments from the lips to the entire face.

City Face Skin Remodeler contains collagen peptides and Dermal Matrix Remodelling technology, which is said to relax face muscles the natural way and prevent the formation of wrinkles in the future. It is intended as an alternative to plastic surgery and to 'raise the bar on skin care', said City co-founder .

According to the company, 30 days' use of the new product can tighten and brighten skin for increased elasticity and a rosy complexion, plump and smooth out crow's feet and fine lines and reduce the appearance of pore size and blotches.

"After the enormous success of City Lips Collagen Lip Plumper Treatment, our clients have eagerly anticipated this new treatment formulated especially for the face," said .

They don't have much longer to wait--the product launch across all Sephora stores is set for December.

US: This December, Biotherm (L'Oreal) will introduce in the US a daily anti-wrinkle cream meant to perform like a face peel by stimulating cell renewal.

Line Peel includes silicum, which stimulates cell renewal, thereby reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles and evening out skin tone. Other ingredients in the product include bio-peeling complex, which increases the skin's natural peeling process; silice complex; a patented mineral-rich concentrate with thermal spring water to soothe and rebalance skin, and apricot and rice bran oil complex to hydrate.

Line Peel will be available at select Macy's, Burdine, Foley and Nordstrom stores as well as online at www.biothermusa.com. It will come in a 1.69-oz container for $ 40.

Germany: Merz has introduced a quick-acting Special Foam Mask in three variants--Aloe Vera, Plantubex and Total Refresh 1-Minute Mask.

The Aloe Vera mask is said to moisturise, relax and smooth the skin, and contains vitamin E for added protection from the environment and premature ageing. The Plantubex mask, which is a reformulation of a pioneering foam mask that debuted in 1968, is especially suitable for mature skin. It contains ginkgo extract and vitamin A to stimulate the skin's natural repair mechanism. Finally, Total Refresh 1-Minute Mask. which replaces Merz's 1-Minute Mask Total Refresh contains ocean algae and minerals to nourish the skin and help it to store moisture.

Each variant comes in a 50ml jar (equivalent to about 40 applications) retailing at 5.99 [euro].

UK: Skin Doctors is introducing its anti-ageing collagen alternative Antarctilyne to the UK market.

Previously available only in Australia, Antarctilyne[TM] is the first cosmeceutical product to contain the glycoprotein Antarcticine, a biologically-engineered ingredient developed following the discovery of a new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, which produces an exopolymer with remarkable cryoprotective (freezing) properties during cell growth.

In Antarctilyne, this glycoprotein has the effect of plumping wrinkles by up to 44 per cent, hydrating skin by 45 per cent and increasing collagen by 114 per cent and elastin by 17 per cent, says the company. Skin is said to be smoother, firmer and younger-looking within two weeks.

Antarctilyne will be available in the UK from January 2005, rrp 39.95 [pounds sterling] for 50ml.

Skin Doctors products are sold in selected European markets. The company is currently building up its distribution to other key continental markets.

Thailand: Demand for a state-produced anti-ageing cream in Thailand has been so high that stocks have reportedly run out, despite the fact that the Government Pharmaceutical Organisation produces 8000 units of it every day. Plans are afoot to export the cream, which is made from the Thai herb curcuma zedoaria, and add lotions and sun protection products to the range.

IAC-CREATE-DATE: November 29, 2004

LOAD-DATE: November 30, 2004

 
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